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  • Writer's pictureCari Mackey

Why do we surf?

Updated: Apr 24, 2023

Surfing - a tribe of passionate people with an obsessive desire to catch a perfect wave. While it's inspiring to watch surfers fire down the line of a huge wave in a tropical paradise setting, we know that's not the reality of what it really is for the rest of us. To get there, takes a lifetime of commitment and willingness to fall on your face, get beat up, held down, and spit out, time and again.  But, we all need an inspiration to get us through the tough times right?!

Videos like this inspire us to get out in the ocean, figure out how to get past the crashing waves, and then stand up and figure out how to balance on a tiny little board just for a taste of what it's like to ride an ocean wave. At first, it's scary being at the mercy of the oceans power but you quickly find that it's not as bad as you think. The first moment you get up on the board and ride a wave is a feeling that sticks with you whether its the next wave you're trying to catch or a stressful moment in life you are trying to navigate through. 

You GOT this. Deep breath, calm down, and focus.

Right now, we are all experiencing moments that are beyond our control. It's scary, we are falling on our faces, the waves are coming from all different directions, and we don't know how to stand up and find our balance. We have to find the courage to continue to paddle out, get past the madness, so we can feel the victory of the ride. 

Yes, its hard but that's also why it's so rewarding - the feeling of achievement. It's hard to learn to surf, you can do it. Step by step and day by day. Of all the lessons we have given here, 95% of our students are able to reach that victorious feeling of standing up and surfing a wave in their first 2 hour session. It's a moment you or your kids will keep with you forever.  

Your Friends in Morrillo,

Cari and Ryan Mackey

Owners and Hosts

Morrillo Beach Eco Resort

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